When we decided to return to Portugal for a month-long stay, Anita and I wanted to be based in Lisbon, but away from much-touristed Alfama. After some looking around the internet, we settled on an apartment in Alcântara, and looked forward to our view of the Tagus, easy access to transport, and a creative vibe. We found all these things and more.
Trendy, bustling Alcântara
Alcântara ‘s LX Factory compound was just a stroll away from our temporary digs. One of Lisbon’s most interesting bookstores, several restaurants and the creative space in an old fabrics factory made this a repeat destination. We joined the locals in catching buses and trams in both directions, and found our under-the-bridge location to be every bit as convenient as we had hoped.
Finding food
There are a number of tourist spots around the marina and in LX Factory, and we tried a few. We also quickly found a favorite local cafe for excellent coffee, pastel de nata and pastéis de bacalhão. Just a few blocks out the tram line, another neighborhood restaurant serves up a very good seafood rice–plus, its family owners are from Ponte de Lima, one of our favorite places in Portugal. Tile paintings of that city decorate the walls. We also frequented the neighborhood’s vegetable market and butcher shop, for meals to make “at home” in our apartment kitchen.
Gritty charm
Many buildings in Lisbon have not been maintained over the years, and neglect has generated an atmosphere of gritty realism that loves to have its picture taken. Take a look.
Tram central
Lisbon’s famous Tram 28 (and the 18 and 25) pass through Praça Calvário, the latter two on a regular route and the 28, on its way to and from the Carris maintenance yard. In the evening, when many of the city’s vintage single-car trams come into the yard, it is easy to imagine a time gone by, when those were the only ones in operation. It’s still impressive to think how many of the trams make their way up and down Lisbon’s hilly routes.
Street art and symbolism
Our part of Alcântara sprawls beneath the Ponte 25 de Avril, and as elsewhere in Lisbon, there is plenty of street art on view. Here are just three examples:
At home in Alcântara
If there was a negative to our choice, it would have to be the noise factor. In our third-floor walk-up, with its lovely sunrises and view of the bridge and river, we shared our meals on the balcony with every plane approaching the Lisbon airport. And we experienced firsthand, the whirring of vehicles of all sorts over the stunning bridge. Despite these distractions, the hourly chiming of church bells–just as those from Basel’s Munster and Rathaus–made us feel right at home.
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We love Portugal! To see all our travel stories from this wonderful country, click here.
We also stayed in Alcântara once and liked it. We had a swanky duplex loft apartment in a converted factory just off the main road so the noise wasn’t too bad. It’s great to have the choice between the traditional local cafés and restaurants and the more dynamic and intriguing LX Factory.
Have you made it to the Tapada das Necessidades park yet? There was an outdoor concert going on when we stumbled across it but probably nothing going on in autumn. There’s a viewpoint just before you get there and it’s a pleasant place for a stroll and a fix of greenery.
And if you’re still in Alcântara, try the little Nepalese restaurant on Rua do Sacramento.
Thanks, Julie! We ate at the Nepalese resto last week, and enjoyed the friendly service there…no concerts in the area at this time, but it’s not far to Belem, where we had a great evening tasting wines from Alentejo!
I’d love to live like a local in Lisbon even with a few noisy distractions. Actually, I’d be happy just to have a short visit — sometime soon, I hope. I’m intrigued with the black and white photos of scenes that I’m sure were very colorful. Something very cool about that and how it makes me think of the scenes as I look at them. Well done!
Hello Cathy,
Thank you for your comment.
I am happy you liked the photos. Yes, Black & White photos make you look at the scene differently, sometimes color can be a distraction. There is a lot of color in Alcântara but I used Black & White to bring out the gritty feel.
Good luck on getting to Lisbon, it is a fun city with a lot of great food and culture.