Places

    Quinta da Plansel

    Exemplary vines, first-class wines in Montemor-o-Novo, Portugal

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    Tom and I met winemaker Dorina Lindemann at Essência do Vinho, at the Portugal Wine Connection in the Palacio de Bolsa’s magnificent Salon Arab....

    Food adventuring in Ipoh, Malaysia

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    “May we join you?” the woman asked, smiling and gesturing to two empty stools at our table. Tom and I looked up from slurping...
    wine in the making

    Way off the beaten path in Portugal’s Douro Valley

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    After rinsing our feet in a basin of water, we stepped into the granite lager—Portugal’s traditional venue for treading grapes by foot. For our...
    kuala lumpur

    Tasting Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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    What better place to begin a two-month culinary romp through Southeast Asia than Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia? Famous for its multicultural vibe and world-class street...
    Moroccan ingredients

    Blissfully organic in the Ourika Valley, Morocco

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    Two chefs, from opposite sides of the globe, meet in a kitchen in New Zealand, her homeland. They marry their passion for organic cooking,...
    Food tour! It’s one of the first things Tom and I do soon after we arrive at a new destination, to get our taste buds working to the rhythm of an unfamiliar food culture. In the case of Morocco, the food is not new to us—we have been coming to Morocco often for more than a decade--but we know Moroccan food as it is served in Fez, where we have a home in the medina. Last month, though, we spent a few days in Marrakech. There, we had an opportunity to take a walk with Marrakech Food Tours. Our guide was Youssef Moutaki, who with his American wife Amanda, founded the popular food tour company three years ago. Their local perspective has been invaluable in creating food experiences that are based on the foods Moroccan people eat, at home and on the go. What we found was a local food scene that is much larger than the sum of its parts. Our walk began on the edge of Djemaa El Fna and plunged straightaway into the streets of the medina, where street food and tiny restaurants feed locals as well as tourists. It was the best sort of food walk: every spot we visited has passed the test of time and local tastes and the food was guaranteed to be safely and authentically prepared. Some places open just a few hours each day, catering for locals at breakfast time, for mid-morning or late-afternoon snacks. Some are food carts serving seasonal fruits. In one case, a lunchtime restaurant opened just for our group. It was a well-curated mix of venues and flavors. We started the walk hungry, as instructed, and (just) managed to make it to the end without adjusting our belt buckles. Youssef grew up here, and along the way, regaled us with stories behind the food we ate. With his encouragement, I tried some things not generally on my list of must-eat foods…and I’m so glad I did! Mouth-watering, authentic food! After many food tours over the years, Tom and I have a few ways we judge how well any given tour settles us into the local food scene. Is it a worthwhile experience for both first-time and repeat visitors? Does it cover the basics with flair? Does it offer a balance of familiar and more adventurous tastings? Does it highlight the most important aspects of local culture in an entertaining way and with plenty of background about the foods we sample? Our walk with Youssef satisfied on all counts, from basic flavors to Morocco’s signature couscous, from street-food adventures to a sweet finish. Basic flavors Moroccan cuisine takes pickled foods to a high art, and olives are among the best examples. There are the brined olives for cooking, in green, pink and black. There are the good-eating ones, herbed up with thyme, garlic, and harissa. And there are the other pickled goodies: jalapeño-like peppers, slices of preserved lemon. We tried them all! Tasting olives in the Marrakech medina Lamb, grilled or baked or in tagines is Moroccan fine dining, and we sampled several versions. There are just three of the traditional underground ovens, much like a tandoor, remaining in the Marrakech medina, and we had a chance to see them in operation. Tom liked the melchoi—char-grilled—and got his “I ate the eyeball” badge. The lamb tangia was my hands-down favorite, delicately redolent of herbs, and every bit as savory as the beef tangia we first tasted in Fez. Lamb tangia, a Marrakech tradition Msemmen omara—msemmen bread stuffed with onions and spices—is Moroccan fast food, made while you watch, rolled and wrapped in paper. Mildly peppery and highly addictive! Msemmen omara, made to order Adventurous street food Snails farmed near Essaouira are tiny things, and in the Marrakech medina, served in little cups that befit their delicate stature. These juicy morsels get their zip from long-cooking in a broth flavored with anise. Plucked one by one from the shells with a toothpick, they were a delight. An extra: cups of the broth, passed around for a sip or two. I can just imagine how welcome this broth will be when the weather turns chilly. Spleen—and goodness know what other animal bits—chopped fine and grilled with plenty of herbs. Not something I would ever select from a restaurant menu. Served on a piece of foil, this is not picturesque food, but it was surprisingly tasty. Hout quari are grilled sardine meatball sandwiches made with a “secret” spice mix and served with smen (Moroccan preserved butter), olives, harissa, tomato sauce, and onions. The heady blend of spice, butter, and tang sandwiched into a split single loaf of bread, then doused with a piquant sauce was a childhood favorite of Youssef’s, and it is one of my favorites too. Snails in broth: refreshing, savory, and very popular medina snacks Veg couscous as it should be The vegetarian tagines served up in most restaurants are tepid affairs, and couscous can be right out of a box. The couscous tfaya—vegetarian couscous with caramelized onions and sesame seeds—we enjoyed on our walk was none of this: instead, it was a four-hour love affair from a tiny hole-in-the-wall place in the back of beyond, prepared just for our visit. The couscous had been made in good Moroccan grandmother fashion, a sumptuous version for the Friday meal: steamed above vegetable broth, tossed in olive oil and steamed some more. The clincher was the topping of onions and sultanas, which added a yummy, not at all treacly, sweet note. Alongside the couscous, we were treated to freshly made tafernout (crispy flatbread) and mint tea enlivened with other herbs. Vegetable couscous, topped with caramelized onions and sultanas Crisp tafernout is good with couscous, and, I imagine, just about anything! Seasonal fruits Moroccans are notoriously fond of sweet flavors, especially honey. Perhaps surprisingly, they generally serve fresh fruit after a filling repast. Our couscous meal ended with a refreshing jolt of fresh from pomegranates. On our walk, we also had a chance to taste cactus fruit, piled high in seasonal profusion throughout the medina. Sampling cactus fruit in the Marrakech medina For the sweet tooth Sfinge—Moroccan donuts—are a lot like their cousins, the beignet, only not as sweet. Rather like fried bread, they are handed over on brown paper and dipped in honey or dressed up with a dollop of jam. These sinful delights are especially popular with Moroccans as a morning bite or a nosh before dinner. A vendor strings sfinge onto a “rope” of palm fronds. One of the most popular Moroccan energy boosters—or simply a treat—is a fruit smoothie. My choice of avocado and almond turned out to be just the thing to go with a little sampler of pastries: honey-soaked chbakiya (Ramadan cookies), kaab gazelle (moon-shaped almond cookies). Fruit smoothie and pastries: a fine finish to our food fest in Marrakech! If you go A walk with Marrakech Food Tours is the perfect time to trust someone else’ good instincts for food safety and authenticity, and just enjoy it! The range of foodie experiences on offer provides several slightly different takes on the city’s food scene and locations. • Our evening street food tour took us to carefully chosen places in the streets and back alleys of the medina, places we would never have found on our own. • A gourmet tour takes participants to a progressive dinner with stops at a different riad for each course. • A sandwich walk offers adventurous eaters discovery in the Kasbah and Mellah, two of the oldest neighborhoods in the city. • It can be difficult to accommodate Moroccan foods to highly restricted diets or vegans. To avoid disappointment, ask up front about any dietary concerns.

    Tasting Morocco in Marrakech

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    Food tour! It’s one of the first things Tom and I do soon after we arrive at a new destination, to get our taste...
    Sugar for your mint tea?

    A refresher course in Moroccan sweets

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    Morocco excels in sweet flavor notes. During a long absence from our house in Fez, I somehow forgot just how strong those notes can...
    Wort Wine Day Regatta

    Portugal’s Port Wine Day, Fourth Edition

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    Innovative, informative and crowd-pleasing—Port Wine Day celebrates the wine that made Portugal’s Douro Valley famous. The events of Port Wine Day commemorate the day...
    Swiss cows

    Alpabzug or Désalpe? Swiss cows come home

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    Every autumn, Swiss cows in their droves leave the high pastures of summer to return to the valleys, collared with bells and with bouquets...
    Klosterbergfest

    Around the world at Basel’s Klosterbergfest

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    For more than three decades, the annual Klosterbergfest has been a "multiculti" late-summer ritual in Basel, Switzerland. The neighborhood culture party's crowds circle the...
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