The celebration foods of Nepal’s Newari community
Kathmandu may be most visitors’ entry point to the wonders of Nepal, but it is cussedly difficult to love. Many of its ancient structures...
Discovering Nepalese cuisine, one plate at a time
Before I visited Nepal, I was aware of exactly two dishes on a Nepalese menu: dal bhat and momos, and I had no real appreciation...
Place and taste in Trastevere and beyond
Trastevere. tras-TE'-ve-re. ‘Across the Fiume Tevere’—or as we know it, the Tiber River. Stay in this shabby-chic, former working-class neighborhood and soak up the...
Picture-perfect Provence, with wine
Our trip to Provence last summer was filled with times that Tom and I will always remember, times worthy of capture in a photograph—what...
A long weekend in the Rome countryside
Rome is such a draw, such an over-achiever, that many travelers never see some of Italy’s finest historical treasures in the nearby rolling hills...
It’s February–Let’s celebrate Portuguese wine!
It’s February, and time to celebrate Portuguese wine! Essência do Vinho, the country’s most important wine fair, has just concluded in Porto. Simplesmente Vinho,...
Touring Portugal’s Lisboa wine country
A great pleasure in moving to Portugal has been our introduction to all manner of excellent wines: sparkling, red, wine and fortified. One of...
Hospitality, Lazio style
“You must try fario!” our host exclaimed. “Brown trout love our Amiene River,” he continued, “and they thrive only in such pure waters as...
Tasting wine and cava in Catalonia’s DO Penedès
“The more we care for the earth, the better our wine.”
—Bodegas Torres, Penedès
Penedès is the largest of Catalonia’s eleven wine regions, stretching between Montserrat...
11 food memories from Provence
My memories from Provence are vivid, and at least for now, all from summertime travels there. They are mostly memories of the Luberon, with...
