A Moroccan gift of ‘beldi’

Soon after my arrival in Fez last month, I came down with a nasty summer cold. A medina friend came to the rescue, concerned...
Fruit and vegetable souk, Fez, Morocco

Shopping in the last week of Ramadan

The morning is still, a silence broken by the flutter of wings as birds wheel around the minaret of our neighborhood mosque. A gentle...

Ramadan summer in the city

Hot town, summer in the city Back of my neck getting dirty and gritty Been down, isn't it a pity Doesn't seem to...

Notes from Ramadan, at View from Fez

It's 2:00 am and I am jolted awake by the firing of a cannon, followed by the deep bong of a drum and a...
Grapes, peaches and watermelon

Moroccan fruits: plums, peaches and prickly pears

Plums hold a place of honor in my Moroccan kitchen. The purple-skinned ones, with tart flesh, take time to ripen fully, so have time...

Couscous memories make the best (Moroccan) memories

Couscous symbolizes happiness and abundance, according to some culinary anthropologists. In Morocco, to be invited for the Friday mid-day meal means "Join us for...

Sweet countdown to Ramadan

  Halwa Chebakia is a Moroccan sesame cookie which is folded into a flower shape, fried and then coated with honey. It's very popular in...
A Moveable Feast

Couscous and camaraderie in Morocco

My advance copy of Lonely Planet's forthcoming food anthology arrived a week ago, and it’s an edifying read. The thirty-eight stories are set around...
View of the Fez medina, Morocco

Remembering Morocco

I learned to make tagines, bread, and salad at the proverbial knee of several Moroccan home cooks and one very good Berber chef, Lahcen...
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