Tanjia

Tangia or tanjia—either way, it’s Moroccan pot roast

Sunday dinners after church were wonderfully predictable when I was a kid: if it was Sunday, it must be pot roast.  The meat seared...

The sun sets on Ramadan 2011

At 19:52 last evening, the cannons on the hills above either side of the Fez medina fired three times, signaling the end to Ramadan....

A Moroccan gift of ‘beldi’

Soon after my arrival in Fez last month, I came down with a nasty summer cold. A medina friend came to the rescue, concerned...
Fruit and vegetable souk, Fez, Morocco

Shopping in the last week of Ramadan

The morning is still, a silence broken by the flutter of wings as birds wheel around the minaret of our neighborhood mosque. A gentle...

Notes from Ramadan, at View from Fez

It's 2:00 am and I am jolted awake by the firing of a cannon, followed by the deep bong of a drum and a...

Couscous memories make the best (Moroccan) memories

Couscous symbolizes happiness and abundance, according to some culinary anthropologists. In Morocco, to be invited for the Friday mid-day meal means "Join us for...
Ramadam

Sweet countdown to Ramadan

  Halwa Chebakia is a Moroccan sesame cookie which is folded into a flower shape, fried and then coated with honey. It's very popular in...
Banteay Srei at dawn, Angkor, Cambodia

Angkor without the crowds—Banteay Srei

A pre-dawn alarm, followed by an hour’s travel with a car and driver, ensured early arrival at Angkor’s Banteay Srei, a 10th century temple...
Carving beneath the Terrace of the Leper King, Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Around Angkor Wat— without the crowds

Beneath Angkor’s Elephant Terrace Since I first visited Angkor Wat in 1998, tourist numbers to Cambodia’s number 1 attraction have increased exponentially. So, when I...
Frangipani, Cheoung Ek killing fields, Cambodia

The day I met Bou Meng

Frangipani wafted in the early morning air and butterflies were everywhere, when I visited Cheoung Ek, the best known of Cambodia’s infamous killing fields.   The...
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