A Moroccan gift of ‘beldi’
Soon after my arrival in Fez last month, I came down with a nasty summer cold. A medina friend came to the rescue, concerned...
Shopping in the last week of Ramadan
The morning is still, a silence broken by the flutter of wings as birds wheel around the minaret of our neighborhood mosque. A gentle...
Notes from Ramadan, at View from Fez
It's 2:00 am and I am jolted awake by the firing of a cannon, followed by the deep bong of a drum and a...
Couscous memories make the best (Moroccan) memories
Couscous symbolizes happiness and abundance, according to some culinary anthropologists. In Morocco, to be invited for the Friday mid-day meal means "Join us for...
Sweet countdown to Ramadan
Halwa Chebakia is a Moroccan sesame cookie which is folded into a flower shape, fried and then coated with honey. It's very popular in...
Angkor without the crowds—Banteay Srei
A pre-dawn alarm, followed by an hour’s travel with a car and driver, ensured early arrival at Angkor’s Banteay Srei, a 10th century temple...
Around Angkor Wat— without the crowds
Beneath Angkor’s Elephant Terrace
Since I first visited Angkor Wat in 1998, tourist numbers to Cambodia’s number 1 attraction have increased exponentially. So, when I...
The day I met Bou Meng
Frangipani wafted in the early morning air and butterflies were everywhere, when I visited Cheoung Ek, the best known of Cambodia’s infamous killing fields. The...
The smiling face of ABOUTAsia
Angkor is Cambodia’s premier tourist destination, but it can be a test of a traveler’s mettle to navigate the place. A tailored viewing of...
Art Parcours 2011 through St. Albantal
Art Basel 42, which closed on Sunday, reported a guest list that was 65,000 visitors long. This year, I found greater inspiration outside the...