Eating Well in Fez, Morocco

Some say that the best Moroccan meals are those prepared and served at home, and this is mostly accurate in my experience. I’ve enjoyed many scrumptious meals in Morocco, and eating well in Fez has often meant savoring dishes made by home cooks following unwritten recipes passed down through generations. Mothers and grandmothers here still make some of the finest food you’ll find.

That said, today’s visitor to the Fez medina is presented with a wealth of dining options—for both authentic Moroccan dishes and for creative fusion cooking that blends local flavors with global influences. During a recent stay, my husband and I savored refined takes on Moroccan classics. We indulged in beloved traditional specialties. And we enjoyed casual bites in charming courtyards. On our recent trip, we did not have a chance to cook with friends in a Fez kitchen and we did not sample the sweet traditions of Ramadan.

Instead, we returned to several favorite local restaurants and visited a couple of new ones. We enjoyed rooftop terraces with sweeping views and visited a hidden garden retreat. Happily, we re-discovered a vibrant culinary scene that caters to almost every palate and pocketbook. Here are our current favorites in a city renowned for its cuisine.

Bistro Laaroussa

Riad Laaroussa welcomes diners to Bistro Laaroussa, for lunch, dinner, and brunch. Guests enjoy meals or drinks on a stunning roof terrace with a magnificent view or inside before a warming fire. The restaurant serves home-style Moroccan specialties and Mediterranean dishes, everything prepared with fresh and local ingredients. The wine list is a delightful tour through Morocco’s modern vineyards. The bistro has a cozy dining room, and reservations are recommended.

Our take: The bistro is great for a break from tagines and couscous. We especially enjoyed pan-seared fish with vegetables and a glass of chardonnay from nearby Meknès. What others say.

The Ruined Garden

The restaurant is set in the atmospheric ruins of a courtyard house a short walk from the medina’s Tala’a Seghira shopping street. At lunchtime, it serves small plates, cakes, pastries, and fresh juices. The Garden’s “Modern Moroccan dinners” include a seven-hour lamb ‘Mechwi’ or, my favorite, a yummy chicken pastilla. Dining is in the garden or the salon before a log fire. Guests can request an escort to and from medina guest accommodations. Reservations recommended.

Our take: The unique garden setting is inviting, even in winter. The chicken pastilla we were served was the best we’ve tasted in Fez: beautifully spiced and “meaty,” it was a nice dish to share. What others say.

Restaurant Almandar

Friendly waiters welcome guests to this rooftop restaurant near Bab R’cif in the lower medina of Fez. The menu includes tagines, pastilla, couscous, and a range of “fast foods” Moroccan style, such as paninis, burgers, and grilled roast chicken. Little bowls of olives, zalouk, a salad of smoky eggplant and tomatoes, and either loubia or lentils—are a lovely—and complimentary—start to a meal here. Drinks on offer include sodas, teas and delicious seasonal fruit smoothies. Restaurant Almandar is open for lunch and dinner. The restaurant is easily accessible by taxi, and parking is a few hundred meters away.  

Our take: Almandar is a convenient option when visiting the Qarawiyyin and Andalusian neighborhoods. We enjoyed popping in for a late lunch or early dinner, a bit outside standard mealtimes. What others say.

Café Clock

A Fez icon, the original Café Clock (there are also Clocks in Marrakech and Chefchouen) rambles over several floors of a restored building at the upper reaches of Taa’la Kabira, the medina’s main shopping street. The restaurant’s fusion dishes please the palates of locals and travelers alike. The Clock offers a uniquely seasoned camel burger as the house specialty, and all the small bites and salads are delicious. The Clock offers cooking and calligraphy classes, music and storytelling evenings, and other cultural activities. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and brunch.

Our take: We’ve been coming to Café Clock since it first opened. We can vouch for the restaurant’s consistently well-prepared light bites. The Clock’s welcoming atmosphere and the view from its upper terraces are always a welcome stop when we are near Bab Boujloud (the Blue Gate). What others say.

Ishq Restaurant

Chic and elegant, Ishq, a contemporary gem at the Ain Zleten entrance to the Fez medina, is easily reached by taxi. The restaurant’s fine-dining menu of Moroccan fusion cuisine presents original takes on local flavors and Western dishes. Intriguing menu items include black couscous with caramelized pears and beef, and poached fish prepared with Sechuan peppers. The wine list is international, with Moroccan options. Ishq serves lunch and dinner on a rooftop terrace or in one of the restaurant’s atmospheric nooks. Parking is available nearby, and a reservation is necessary.

Our take: This relative newcomer is a stunning addition to the city’s fine dining scene. Visiting Ishq with a friend, we were delighted to find several menu items suitable for sharing, which enabled us to taste more dishes. We enjoyed every bite, and the presentation of a warmed fois gras starter was remarkable. What others say.

Eating well in Fez

Fez’s dining landscape is as rich and varied as its history. Whether exploring the medina’s bustling streets or seeking a tranquil rooftop escape, visitors can experience a unique perspective on Fez’s vibrant food culture, from inventive fusion dishes to comforting classics.

If you go

• None of the restaurants mentioned here are wheelchair accessible, and except for The Ruined Garden, reaching the dining rooms requires climbing several flights of stairs.
• All of these restaurants are vegetarian-friendly and offer gluten-free options.
• Most restaurants in the Fez medina do not offer alcohol. Bistro Laaroussa and Ishq, two of our favorites, serve wine.