Touring a new city on foot always brings the place into focus, and a good food tour adds an element I especially enjoy. A couple of years before Tom and I moved from Switzerland to Portugal, we spent several weeks traveling in Portugal, ending with an exploration of northern Portugal’s food scene. On a glorious day in May, we walked the hilly terrain of splendid Porto with André Apollinario of Taste Porto Food Tours. A light breeze tempered the heat of just-arriving summer. It was perfect weather for tramping across broad avenues and plazas, diving into steeply pitched cobblestone streets, and enjoying a culinary walk.
When we met André, Taste Porto had been in operation for just a year. Our host’s love of his city, and of Portugal’s culinary traditions was apparent, and his enthusiasm for welcoming people to Porto, boundless.
We learned that people from Porto call themselves ‘Tripeiros’, or tripe eaters, after a local legend from the 15th century. In this one, the citizens of Porto fed the troops of Henry the Navigator’s fleet in the conquest of Ceuta, in northern Africa, and kept for themselves only the ingredients that became Tripas à Moda do Porto. The stew of tripe, sausages, and beans is a symbol of the citizen’s generosity and appears on many local menus.
We heard about the infamous Francesinha, or ‘Frenchie’. The stomach-busting sandwich of meat, sausages, and cheese is topped with a beer and tomato sauce and a fried egg and served with a side of French fries.
Neither of these dishes featured on our tour but learning about them gave us an insight into the humble foods behind a rich culinary tradition.
Prior to our tour, we had seen Porto’s nickname, ‘Invicta’ or ‘Unvanquished’, all over town–on trash cans, buses, and the banner for FC Porto, the city’s football team. The moniker comes from historical fact: the city’s withstanding a year-long siege during the 19th-century Portuguese civil war. The traditional culinary scene here has an edge to it still, and this was evident on our half-day walkabout with André. It was a great introduction to the city we would, in the not-too-distant future, call home.
Authentic, intensive
A Taste Porto original
Our Downtown Food Tour was a sublime “city walks intensive”, with plenty of opportunities to work off the calories we packed away. Porto is quite hilly, a fact of geography that put more than 13,000 steps on my Pedometer in the name of Portuguese food and wine. We began our walk at the Bolhão Market and ended with sweets at Praça de Guilherme Gomes Fernandes in Porto’s ancient Vitória neighborhood. Along the way, we stopped for a look over Porto’s rooftops to Vila Nova de Gaia, where we would later head for a port wine tasting.

To begin our walk, we tasted savory Pastel de Chaves and visited Casa Cristina (a café since closed). The café’s coffee grinders were museum pieces, having been used in hard times to blend chicory with coffee beans and stretch scarce resources. We met long-time shopkeepers, and young entrepreneurs bringing authentic regional flavors to Porto from across Portugal, and especially the North. At Porto’s iconic Bolhão Market, we tasted sardines with baguette slices and a glass of Douro moscatel wine.
Bolhão Market was in disrepair on that first visit, its offerings severely reduced, as the city prepared to renovate and modernize the neoclassic premises. Several of the vendors we met that day would retire rather than move to the market’s temporary location in La Vie shopping center. Others made the move to the Mercado Temporário do Bolhão, kept traditions alive there while awaiting their return to the refurbished marketplace.
My favorite new flavors from our first time with Porto Food Tours included an aromatic dish of melted Caganita ewe’s cheese on country bread and a pulled-pork sandwich with a glass of bubbly red wine from vineyards near Porto. In a decadent finish, we indulged in chocolate éclairs with extra cream on the side.

Slow food, Port wine
The Vintage Food Tour gives participants a chance to see, feel, and taste traditional foods that travelers often miss on a whirlwind visit to Porto. Along with stops at family-owned shops, where fruit and cheeses jostle for space with coffee beans and wine, the walk takes participants behind the scenes at revamped restaurants where a new generation of locals is reviving Porto’s gastronomy. These innovators are supporting the city’s emergence as one of Europe’s top culinary destinations, and happy to share the results. Highlights of the Vintage walk for me included sampling hearty breads, such as Folar de Murça, and a variety of meats and cheeses from the Douro and Trans Montana regions, and an introduction to Port wine. This walk was a Slow Food showcase!



New explorations
Taste Porto’s most recent addition to its tour roster pairs local snack foods with locally produced craft brews. Participants in the Craft Beer & Food Tour sample and learn from a passionate beer educator and are introduced to the city’s must-visit beer spots. It is enough to flame any beer lover’s enthusiasm!
Since moving to Portugal, we have been delighted to join numerous culinary experiences led by Taste Porto Food Tours.
We’ve participated in collaborations, such as cooking sessions, a food photography walk for the first edition of Porto PhotoFest, even a cool video.
We cheered when André discussed port wine, cheese, and charcuterie with Anthony Bourdain on a Porto episode of the Parts Unknown series.
We have gotten to know several of the food and wine producers we first met on Taste Porto food walks.
And we’ve seen firsthand Taste Porto’s diversification and growth as talented guides have joined the team.
Today, as it has from the beginning, Taste Porto supports good works, donating a percentage ticket sales to AMI, a local organization helping the homeless.
Who knows what the creative team behind Taste Porto will think of next?
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Thank you to APTECE, the Portuguese Culinary Tourism and Economic Association, and Turismo de Portugal, for bringing us to Portugal in the first place, and to everyone at Taste Porto Tours for making us feel so at home in Porto!
To see all our travel stories from Portugal, click here.
Beautiful words Anita, and congratulations on your inspiring photography in this delightful article about Taste Porto! I also took a tour with André earlier this year, and can only confirm what you are saying about the magic of food tour explorations, especially when you are visiting a city for the first time. Next time, don’t miss the Francesinhas at a place called “O Golfinho” near Torre Dos Clérigos – you won’t be disappointed! 😉
Thank you too for all your inspiring articles about Portugal! Taste of Lisboa, and “a food lover’s guide to Alentejo”, are high on my list. 😀 In case you want to hear more about my recent explorations in Portugal, check out my travel blog at http://www.creativelena.com/en/travel-blog/europe/portugal-europe
Looking forward to staying connected, as like you I am always on the lookout for “cultural traditions & a never-ending quest for art, good food and the people who make it”, especially concerning the concept of “creative travel”. Hopefully, we’ll get to meet in person one day !!!
All the best for now,
Elena!
Thanks so much, Elena! I’m delighted to discover your blog, and it certainly looks as though we follow the same travel muse. Would love to meet up one day, so please stay in touch!
I am always so thankful that these types of tours have a walking component to work off the calories consumed. So looking forward to exploring Porto someday under the auspices of an expert group of foodies. I don’t know whether I’m captivated more by the flamed sausages or the eclairs. Perhaps both would be a place to start. 🙂
I agree about the walking. And in the case of Porto, the walks are up and down hilly streets. Sausages, eclairs…all good here!
Bubbly red wine. I’d like some now. And the chocolate eclairs! Every time I read a post from you about Portugal I feel like it is calling me to go there! This walking tour looks fabulous and thank goodness it’s hilly (food= calories = walk, walk, walk).
Food tours are my favorite way to discover a city and culture, and this is a very good food tour!
No better way to see new places than with a local who knows their way around. Getting to sample the fare along the way makes it even better.
Agreed! Some foods of northern Portugal can be heavy, even intimidating, and these are the ones a traveler hears of first. Sampling on a tour like this one makes it possible to try bites of deliciousness not always on our radar.
Hmm. I probably wouldn’t be sorry about missing the trip. 😉 But, everything else looks like it was yummy. I would not have imagined Portuguese cuisine to have been so cheese and sausage intensive. Food tours have been notably lacking in my travel experiences. You have convinced me I need to remedy that. Good one.
Suzanne, you definitely need to put a Portuguese food tour on your itinerary one of these days. Great ones are on offer, in both Porto and Lisbon!
That looks wonderful, its been over 20 years since I’ve visited Porto, I need to go back again and taste the amazing food again!
Amazing yes, and no doubt updated since you were here. Time for a return trip!
We love taking food tours wherever we go and with Porto on our itinerary this year, it is great to know about Taste Porto Food Tours. I’m so looking forward to tasting some of this fabulous food!
Super to hear, Jenny! I can think of no better introduction to the city and the country 🙂
Looks like a marvelous tasty tour of Porto. I’d love to try those flaming sausages. Adding Porto to the must-visit list.
They are yummy, Sue…am pretty sure you will love the flavors here. Let us know when you are headed our way!
We are heading to Portugal this May, so we’ll be sure to check out these food tours!
Great to hear, Jane! You will love Porto, no doubt about it…
What a lovely post! Thanks for this – I am actually going to be spending a significant amount of time in this city to update a guidebook – so this is a really useful post.
Thanks for sharing. I’ll be sure to check out this company and tours.
It looks delicious! i love the words you use to describe each place, as they wrap me up to the place you’ve been visiting and living incredible experiences!
Thank you for sharing!
Hi, I’m a friend of Karen Miller, who gave me your link when she heard that my husband and I are about to go to Portugal. Thanks for the recommendations! I’m about to sign us up for a Taste Porto tour!
Great choices — Porto and Taste Porto Food Tours. Have a wonderful trip!